Highway 99 History Series

Greetings All!

In an effort to promote Historic US 99 and the history along the way, we are in the process of producing a new web series covering various topics about the road including the Ridge Route, historic route signs, border crossings, and more. Our first video will cover “The Grapevine” in Southern California. If you’d like to help with this project or have an idea of a topic we should consider, let’s talk!

Winter 2023 Newsletter

Message from the President

It’s been a while since our last newsletter went out. Things have been somewhat busy on my end, and it isn’t easy to get these going. Help is very much needed and appreciated. We are looking for volunteers to help with the newsletter, articles, and more. Our newsletter is also now going to quarterly, albeit this one was a bit late.

Our Association breaks the state up into four regions. We’d like to put YOU in charge of one of the regions. You can be our regional contact or reporter. You can use the newsletter and website to help promote various events, businesses, and locations along Historic US 99.

Contact us if you have any questions, interested in writing for this newsletter, or giving a presentation for the Association. We’d love to hear from you!

Now onto 99 business. Winter has been a bit harsher lately, with heavy rains and snows along the route. The Ridge Route / Grapevine has been closed at times due to snow and mudslides. Lake Shasta rose quite a few feet over the course of a few days inundating long sections of historic highway. Rare avalanches were visible from I-10 in Beaumont Pass coming down from Mt San Jacinto. All this and we’re not even done yet. To this end, here are some tips for travel over The Grapevine / Ridge Route during winter.

Ridge Route / Grapevine Winter Travel Tips

Tejon Pass on February 25, 2023. Courtesy – Caltrans and Ft Tejon CHP

I-5 between Santa Clarita and the San Joaquin Valley over Tejon Pass is known as “The Grapevine” and formerly known as “The Ridge Route”. It is an important corridor in California and has been so since 1915. Travel over the route can be quite treacherous in winter due to both rain and snow. Mudslides, rockfalls, and ice can all wreak havoc on travel. Caltrans, CHP, and the County of Los Angeles work together to ensure safe travel over the route. Sometimes this can result in a full closure of the pass.

STATS:

Highest elevation – 4144′ at Tejon Pass

Normal Closure Points:

  • Southbound at Grapevine (Exit 215)
  • Northbound at Castaic – Lake Hughes Road (Exit 176B)

ALTERNATE ROUTES:

If the 5 is closed, alternate adjacent routes such as Lake Hughes Road are not advisable as they may be in worse condition or be heavily congested. Depending on closures, the best alternative to I-5 is via State 14 (Antelope Valley Freeway) and State 58 over Tehachapi Pass. In times of heavy snow, your only option may well be US 101 to State 46 in Paso Robles. Check with Caltrans and CHP prior to travel to make sure these roads are open.

SPECIAL NOTE:

The Old Ridge Route (Ridge Route Road) is never an alternate to I-5 under any conditions and is not suitable for heavy traffic nor is it open to through traffic.

To stay up-to-date on current conditions, we recommend the following sites:

Be safe out there and always use caution during winter months when traveling the “Grapevine”.

Membership and Donations

We need your support for our efforts to get Historic Route signage placed in various cities and historic locations such as the Pine and Palm. You can do this by becoming a member, donating money, or by volunteering with our Association. We are a 501(c)3 non-profit corporation and your donations may be tax deductible. Why not help reduce your tax burden for 2023 / 2024 by donating prior? We can also use your help with some of our projects, website, and our newsletter. Having someone local to act as our ambassador or liaison would be of great help. Join now or renew and help us grow!

November – December 2022 Newsletter

What is the Historic Highway 99 Association of California?

We started this Association in November 2020 to give Historic US Highway 99 in California a greater voice. So much has been lost over the years and we wanted to help preserve what we could. We have goals to get the roadway marked with Historic Route signs where possible, save sections of original paving, help revitalize businesses and towns along the route, and work to promote the highway however we can.

Those goals won’t be achieved overnight. They will take time and effort. Getting funding and permission to post signage takes a while. Each agency has different rules and methods. Funding comes from many sources, most of which is through donations and the generosity of the cities along the way. To date, we have had success with two cities, Madera and Calexico, with others on the way. Both cities have been very helpful, and we look forward to our continued success with other cities. If you’d like to help with signage in your city, let us know!

Saving sections of the original paving is another goal that isn’t easy but one that can be done. One of our recent projects has been to save a section of Roberts Road in the Calimesa area (HH99AC Region 4) which will be demolished in the near future. Thanks to the efforts of the City of Calimesa, letters from the Redlands Conservancy, and donations received by the Association, we will be able to save at least one of the remaining date stamps from the 1925 concrete. We have been in contact with the developers that own the land as well as the City of Calimesa to ensure this piece of history is preserved. The concrete isn’t particularly historically significant, but it is the last of its kind in the area. Saving it helps keep a bit of history alive.

Helping businesses and towns along the route is something that is more of a group effort. To help assist in achieving this goal, we started our “Highway 99 Adventures” pages where we highlight things to see along the route. Locations listed on the pages range from historic restaurants like the 134-year-old Saugus Cafe in Santa Clarita (HH99AC Region 4), lava tubes near Mt Shasta (HH99AC Region 1), underground gardens in Fresno (HH99AC Region 3), and even the State Capitol Building in Sacramento (HH99AC Region 2). We encourage all that use those pages to let people know where you found them. We also are looking for help with those pages in regard to locations, descriptions, and other content.

Our organization is small but growing. We can’t achieve our goals of preserving and promoting Historic US Highway 99 without your help. That help can come in many forms, such as donations or active involvement in our efforts. We have done a lot more than I had expected so far and there is much more that will happen. We are also looking for ideas of projects, fund raising efforts, website and newsletter content, and presentation ideas. Join our cause and help us grow further! Contact us for more information.

Membership and Donations

As we slowly ramp up our efforts to get Historic Route signage placed in various cities and historic locations such as the Pine and Palm, we need your support. You can do this by becoming a member, donating money, or by volunteering with our Association. We are a 501(c)3 non-profit corporation and your donations may be tax deductible. Why not help reduce your tax burden for 2023 by donating prior? We can also use your help with some of our projects, website, and our newsletter. Having someone local to act as our ambassador or liaison would be of great help. Join now or renew and help us grow!

Photo Request

We are working on an article about the town arches along Highway 99 and we need your help. We are seeking photos of the following arches:

  • Modesto
  • Lodi
  • Orland

The photos should show preferably the entire arch. If there is a dedication plaque nearby, we could use help with that as well.

December 2022 Presentation

We are still working on our final 2022 presentation. Instead of November, it will be held in early December. An announcement will be made soon with sign up information. It will also be a good time to discuss the future of the 99 Association and what you’d like to see get done. We look forward to seeing you, online, in December!

Featured Photo

Division of Highways plans for the Famoso Underpass

In 1935, the California Division of Highways was in the middle of a large campaign to eliminate grade crossings along major routes. US 99 had quite a few in the Central Valley, mostly owing to its path following the Southern Pacific Railroad from Bakersfield to Stockton. One of these underpasses, at Famoso, necessitated the abandonment of a fairly long section of roadway. The underpass, completed in 1936, was itself was replaced with an overpass in 1970. Today, only traces remain of the original route. One surprising discovery was concrete paving still intact at the site of the old grade crossing just north of Famoso. It isn’t easy to access and, as it is along an active freeway, we do not recommend stopping.

Pre-1936 Famoso grade crossing

November 2021 Newsletter

Message from the President

On November 23, 2021, we celebrate our first year as a California Non-Profit Public Benefit Corporation! We have done a lot in our first year and have a lot more to do in the future. In March 2021, we posted our first signs in the city of Calexico and were granted our 501(c)3 status. We also started memberships at the time. Our memberships are growing and now cover California, Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia. In September 2021, we worked with the city of Madera to post new signs along their portion of Historic US 99 known as Gateway Drive. We’ve been in two newspapers so far because of these projects.

I am very proud of what we have been able to accomplish in such a short period of time. We could not have done any of this without all your support and wish to thank all that have contributed their time and money toward our efforts. We also would love to hear from you! What are your thoughts about what we’ve done? Would you like to help? We need your help to represent us throughout the state. We’d love to hear your feedback.

US 99 and Newhall Pass – Part 2

by Michael F Ballard

Looking north through Weldon Canyon in 1949. Courtesy – Caltrans.

Upgrading to a Four Lane Expressway

By the early 1940’s, it became evident that yet another improvement had to be made to the highway. World War II postponed most of the planned improvements for US 99. A plan to widen US 99 to four lanes along its entire course was begun in 1947. On June 24, 1948, a contract was awarded for a 3.3-mile segment, Saugus Junction to Pico Canyon. It was completed on April 8, 1949. In this case, the widening was cheaper, costing only $450,000, as only minor realignments had to be done. The old lanes were used for the northbound side and a new set of lanes was added for the southbound side. The Weldon and Gavin Canyon sections were finally widened to a four-lane expressway in 1951. The old concrete could not be used and had to be demolished, as this section required considerable straightening. The new lanes were made of eight-inch concrete 24 feet wide with a division strip of varying width. These two new roadways had asphalt shoulders that were eight feet wide on the right and five feet wide on the left. The realigning of the roadway involved the excavation of over 700,000 cubic yards. Total cost for this section amounted to about $1 million.

              By 1953, traffic had increased to the point where the next step had to be taken – grade separations. The first section of freeway was completed in 1954. It ran from San Fernando Road near Sepulveda Boulevard (Sepulveda Junction) to the base of Weldon Canyon. This new freeway had many features which greatly improved traffic flow through here. A three-level interchange was constructed at the junction of US 6 and US 99. Direct ramps were constructed to connect northbound US 99 traffic to northbound US 6 and southbound US 6 traffic to southbound US 99.

Three-Level Interchange at US 6 and US 99 in 1955. Courtesy – Caltrans.

Upgrading to an Interstate

              The first segment of US 99 in the Santa Clarita Valley to be reconstructed as an Interstate was between Saugus Junction and Castaic Junction. That freeway, completed in 1964, still carried US 99 shields on the overhead signs. This was done to ease the transition to I-5 from US 99. The completion of the freeway eliminated two major traffic signals along the old highway. From 1967 to 1968, the rest of old US 99 was upgraded to a full freeway. The original freeway through Newhall Pass is now used as the truck route and has been since the interchange was reconstructed with State Highway 14, the Antelope Valley Freeway. The new interchange is located just a half mile northwest of the old interchange.

Earthquakes and Newhall Pass

              On the morning of February 9, 1971, it was still under construction when the Sylmar / San Fernando earthquake struck. Most of what was built collapsed, killing two people in a pickup truck below. It also crushed a newly constructed crane, which was set to be used for the first time that Tuesday morning. The interchange was subsequently rebuilt and finally completed in 1975. However, on January 17, 1994, two of the bridges collapsed in the Reseda / Northridge earthquake. It took less that a year for the interchange to be rebuilt which is remarkable for reconstruction of a major, and functioning, freeway interchange. The old expressway in Gavin Canyon was used as a temporary freeway after the Gavin Canyon overpasses partially collapsed leaving one big rig and a few cars stranded on an island in the sky. The original 1951 concrete was paved over at that time. The center concrete barrier and metal guardrail were also added at that time.

Highway 99 In the News

We were in the news on Saturday, October 9, 2021! The Madera Tribune, a local paper covering Madera County, printed the press release that was issued by the City of Madera for our latest signing project. Getting ink, no matter how, is pretty cool. Every little bit helps with awareness of our organization and spreading the word of our goals.

http://www.maderatribune.com/single-post/historic-99-signs-posted-in-madera

November Presentation

“Where the Lincoln Highway meets Highway 99.”

A look at where the Lincoln Highway, America’s first Transcontinental Highway, 1913-1927, meets Highway 99 in California Central Valley. We will discuss why the Lincoln Highway chose the central valley route to Altamont Pass instead of a more direct one. Hint, there wasn’t any. When the Lincoln Highway ceased to exist, the number system Highway 99 took over from Sacramento south. We will look at some places where you can still see some of the histories of these two famous roads.

Along with his wife Monica, Trey created “Adventures in California History,” an ongoing exploration of historic California. Trey is currently the Vice-President of the Lincoln Highway Association.

Join us on November 2, 2021 at 6 pm for a Zoom presentation. To register, please use the link below:

https://us06web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZcqf-2rrDksH9Yjqv4pqIALpt1W3TAQqJ9V

Membership and Donations

We are looking to expand our organization. With the number of cities interested in Historic Route signage growing, we need your support! Donations big and small are also welcome. Any donation above $20 will include an optional one-year membership. We are also working on a potential “Lifetime” membership, which will be above a specific donation amount.

Signing up is easy! Join us as a member and help us grow!

Highway 99 Discussion Forums

We restarted our online discussion forums for Historic Highway 99. Come join in! Tell your Highway 99 stories, discuss your favorite place along the road, learn about the history, and more!

https://historic99.org/forums/

Upcoming Projects

Things are looking up! We have a few projects in the works at various levels now. In Madera County, we are working on posting signs to mark the Pine and the Palm along Highway 99. We are also looking into getting it designated a “Historic Landmark”, which is something we will need help with. We intend to work with local historical societies, Madera County, and Caltrans to get this done. If you have an idea for a project for the 99 Association or would like to get involved, let us know!

Board Position Open

We are currently seeking a Treasurer for our organization. If you are interested, or know someone that might be, contact us. We’d love to have you as a part of our team and help keep Historic US 99 alive in California!

Featured Book

On Creating Our Highway 99 Books

By Jill Livingston

The occasional sighting of the abandoned Dog Creek Bridge off to the side of I-5 in the Sacramento River Canyon never failed to thrill, and frequent drives through the rocky, bridge-bejeweled Shasta River Canyon on old 99 finally prompted an “aha moment.” My sister and I looked at each other and said, “Someone should do a book about this! Shall we? Can we? How?” And the fact that these northern artifacts are connected to that long, hot highway through the Central Valley we often traversed as kids, and later traveled 99 north on a trip to the 1962 World’s Fair in Seattle made this two-lane highway all the more intriguing.

But this was 1994. Back in those ancient days the internet was barely emerging, so doing research was not an easy thing. Nor was “self-publishing.” Our research started simply with driving around and looking for segments of old highway. I have to think that when we found something, it was much more satisfying than the way it goes nowadays; finding out on Facebook that a segment of old road is in such and such a location, go see it. Our trips were truly trips of discovery! I’ll never forget how excited we were when we stumbled upon the old Salt Creek Bridge that had appeared with a lowering Shasta Lake (yes, there were dry years back then too.) And along the way in our travels we visited any local history museums we could as well as the CalTrans Library in Sacramento and Bancroft Library in Berkeley. I even found a few gems in our small local library, such as the Depression era WPA California guidebook with its colorful descriptions of towns along the way.

After considerable trial and error, we came up with a good format for our books: background history in the chapters, a pictorial Tour (using both contemporary and historic photos), a road log and maps in the back. I’m proud that one reviewer called the Ribbon of Highway series the “seminal” Highway 99 books. Several other books have come out since our first publication as this hobby (obsession?) has grown in popularity, and every one contributes to the story. Over time we published new improved editions and covered the entire highway from Canada to Mexico in three books.

It’s sad that so much roadside archeology has disappeared in the last decades, such as neon signs, vintage auto courts, historic bridges replaced, etc. But it’s fun to see how many people have enthusiastically taken to exploring the old roads.

To purchase a copy of “That Ribbon of Highway” and other books by Jill Livingston, please check out their website:

https://www.livinggoldpress.com/index.html

Featured Photo

Pyramid Rock in Piru Gorge, Los Angeles County

On October 29, 1933, four years to the day following the great stock market crash of 1929, the Ridge Route Alternate officially opened to traffic. This new road bypassed the treacherous 1915 Ridge Route by many miles, relegating it to a forgotten side-road. This also marked the opening of the largest realignment of US 99 in California. No other section was relocated as far from the original alignment. Today, the view shown in the postcard above is still possible, with one major change. Pyramid Rock and Cut remain, but a large dam is now directly behind it.

October 2021 Newsletter

US 99 and Newhall Pass – Part 1

by Michael F Ballard

1920’s postcard view of the tunnel. Courtesy – Michael F Ballard Collection

The first paths through Newhall Pass were Native American foot trails. They went from Los Angeles to the Mojave Desert and the San Joaquin Valley. These trails were used for trade between the desert and the Los Angeles Basin. As Los Angeles grew in size from a sleepy Mexican pueblo to a major city, Newhall Pass became increasingly important to trade and travel. In 1852, the first improvements to Newhall Pass were implemented. Henry C. Wiley created a windlass system to carry stages and wagons over the bluffs. The windlass system used ropes and pulleys that sometimes broke, dropping whatever was being held up, down to the ground. This system lasted for only two years until General Phineas Banning excavated a thirty-foot deep cut into the bluff. On December 5, 1854, he drove the first stage through the cut. This helped greatly to improve the pass. On October 21, 1858, Banning drove the first stage of the Butterfield-Overland Stage Route through the pass.

Beale and his Cut

              In 1863, nine years after General Phineas Banning excavated through the bluff, General Edward F. Beale deepened the cut to ninety feet. This was the biggest improvement to the pass since Wiley’s windlass. However, when Beale deepened the cut, he also added a toll. The tolls were $2.50 for a 12-horse team, 25 cents for a horse and rider, 10 cents for miscellaneous arrivals, and 4 cents each for sheep.

Beale’s Cut in 2017. Courtesy – Michael F Ballard

              Beale’s Cut, as it came to be known, lasted as the main road for many years. In the early 1870’s, the first asphalt paving was added to the road to help keep the dust down. The last improvement made to the cut was in 1909 when it was deepened an additional ten feet to make it more passable by automobiles. In 1910, the County of Los Angeles constructed a tunnel to bypass the steep grade and cut. The tunnel, which measured only 17 ½ feet wide by 17 feet high and was 435 feet long, did relieve traffic temporarily. Not only did it make travel easier through the pass but it also eliminated the 29% grade that led up to Beale’s Cut. This was also one of the first contracts let for the building of the Ridge Route. Initially, the pavement was only 15 feet wide along here. Eventually in the late 1920’s, it was widened to twenty feet.

              Once again, Newhall Pass became a bottleneck. The tunnel was so narrow that if two trucks traveling in opposite directions met at the tunnel, only one could pass through at a time. A traffic count taken on Sunday, January 15, 1928 showed that a total of 9,730 cars came through this tunnel. Weekdays averaged only 3,500 cars daily. Traffic could back up for two miles on each side of the tunnel if an accident occurred. On one of the worst days on record, 20,000 cars passed through the tunnel in just nine hours.

Construction of the Newhall Alternate

Looking south toward Weldon Summit in 1949. Courtesy – Caltrans

In the late 1920’s, the need for a bypass or a complete elimination of the tunnel had become very evident. The fact that the highway became US 99 in 1926 just added extra impetus for a bypass. Construction began on a bypass through Weldon Canyon late in 1928. Weldon Canyon was named after Victor Weldon, a local rancher. It was the first road to be built through there. The new alignment started at the Tunnel Station Viaduct, which was originally built by the City of Los Angeles in 1911 and widened in 1935, thence up Weldon Canyon and Gavin Canyons back to the old alignment near the Santa Clara River. The new route only saved 1.2 miles but it gave travelers another way to go north thus relieving traffic over Newhall Pass. The new roadway, called the Newhall Alternate, was 8.6 miles long, forty feet wide, and paved with three lanes of concrete. Each lane was ten feet wide, the standard at the time. It eliminated Newhall, Saugus, and the Newhall Tunnel from the Ridge Route. It was finally opened to traffic on May 28, 1930.

Part 2 coming next month.

Madera Historic Route 99 Signs

City crews posting one of the signs on NB Gateway Dr at Olive Dr. Courtesy – City of Madera Public Works

We have some great news! After speaking with officials with the City of Madera, they have agreed to post our Historic Route signs along Gateway Drive. This is the first new signage we will be placing, as Calexico was replacing existing signage. Getting approval in Madera is a significant accomplishment for us and I look forward to many more in the future.

Sign posting on Gateway Dr just north of Central Ave. Courtesy – City of Madera Public Works

The new signs were posted on September 29, 2021. They were placed along Gateway Drive at Olive Ave, Yosemite Ave, Central Ave, and near Ave 16. We will make an announcement when we have more details regarding any newspaper articles that may come out. This is such a huge success for the Association and the City of Madera! The signs were designed by Jake Bear.

I would like to thank all of our members and donors, the City of Madera and their Public Works Department for helping make this happen. We couldn’t have done this without all your support!

https://www.madera.gov/news-item/new-signs-to-be-added-along-gateway-to-commemorate-historic-us-route-99/

Coming up next, maybe Ontario?

October Presentation

A car passed by the St. Francis Dam on the way to Powerhouse 1 on March 12, 1928. The driver saw a torch light at the base of the dam, and figured the dam keeper, Tony Harnischfeger was down at the base of the dam. A little while later, a motorcycle passed by the St. Francis dam just before midnight. The driver, Ace Hopewell, glanced over to the dam as he passed. All was calm. One can imagine how beautiful it was in the moonlight, giving off a white glow. He continued on his way to Powerhouse 1, where his shift began at midnight. A few minutes later, he heard a terrible crash. He stopped his motorcycle, smoked a cigarette and listened to the loud crashing sound. The area was known for landslides in the area….the Pelona Schist was unstable and often collapsed on to the road. He listened until the sound began to subside, and carefully, he continued on to work, looking for fallen rock. It wasn’t until he arrived at Powerhouse 1, that he was told that the St. Francis Dam had gone out. He was the last living person to see the dam intact.

Join us on Tuesday, October 5 at 6:30 pm, for the story of the St. Francis Dam, the 2nd largest tragedy in California as far as loss of life.
Presented by the St Francis Dam National Memorial Foundation.

https://us06web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZEldOCtrzwvGdwOa469Nmrkp4ppYiNmI-CV

Featured Photo

Portion of a 1928 aerial photograph showing the Saugus Junction area along US 99. Courtesy – UCSB

The collapse of the St Francis Dam just before midnight on March 12, 1928 caused a great deal of devastation all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Some areas were more permanently affected than others. San Francisquito Creek was shifted east, joining the Santa Clara River near present-day McBean Parkway instead of closer to Castaic Junction. Prior to the flood, US 99 crossed San Francisquito Creek on a 100 foot long steel through-girder bridge. Today, that same crossing is a small culvert. US 99 was also realigned at its crossing with the Santa Clara River, a project that was already in the works prior to the flood. The loss of the original 1916 through-truss span hastened the process with the new bridge being completed in early 1929.

Travel Guide Available

A free copy of a US 99W Travel Guide by Mike Herman from the Historic Ukiah-Tahoe Highway Association is available to members only. Contact us for details!

Board News

We are currently seeking a new Treasurer for our board. Sara Lazarus, our last Treasurer, served us well during her tenure but is no longer able to continue serving in the position due to prior obligations. Contact us if you’re interested in serving. We can use the help and support!

Errata

We are also reintroducing our Highway 99 Discussion Boards after a long hiatus. The old ones had to be deleted due to server issues which have since been resolved. Join the conversation and share your knowledge about US Highway 99.

https://historic99.org/forums/

Changes to our newsletter are coming! Coming up next year, we will be moving to a bimonthly format. Our newsletter, named the Historic Highway 99 Explorer, is also available in a printable PDF format, which can be downloaded on our Newsletters page. If you would like to write an article for our newsletter, contact us and we will talk! You can find our back issues on our Newsletters page.